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| Land of amazing sites by Kelly Cullen (2001/07/08) |
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| Nearest City: Not Specified | |
| Detailed Location: Chile & Argentina | |
| Photo/Video:"Me at the Morena Glacier" | |
| CHILE & ARGENTINA .... A land of amazing sites
(7-08-01) Chile, with a population of 14.8 million, is shaped like a string bean and is no wider than 111 miles (180 km). Its landscapes include the rocky Andean peaks, snowcapped volcanoes, broad rivers and deep canyons, icy fjords, deep-blue glaciers and turquoise lakes. I began my Chilean adventure in Easter Island (which I wrote about previously) then on to the mainland of this remarkable country. Santiago is a very modern and immense metropolis with it’s skyline reflecting the vigorous economical growth. I had a fun-filled time with several people I met in Easter Island. In 3 days, we toured every street in the large city. I took lots of beautiful pictures of San Cristobal (reached by a funicular train), the Cementerio General, where all the former Presidents are buried and witnessed the changing of the guards outside of the Plaza de la Consititucion. The area I spent most of my time in was the Icy Southern tip of Patagonia. Its rugged mountains were constantly battered by the westerly winds that dropped enormous amounts of snow and rain. The average high temperature was 35 F (2C) but the dampness and wind chill factor made it seem much colder. Also the brief winter daylight didn’t help with the chilling factor either. I flew from smog-covered Santiago to the subantartic city of Punta Arenas. Punta Arenas is the capital of the Chilean Patagonia and is at the foot of the Andes with the Strait of Magellan on the Western side of the city. The town serves as the principal port to the Strait and the entrance door of the Antarctica waters. This town of unrelenting winter winds is known for it’s Art Deco Mansions and the wool boom of the late 19th century. As I crossed the Strait of Magellan into Tierra del Fuego, I was reminded of the stories I read about the strong undercurrent and hard climate conditions that transformed the Strait into a vessel cemetery. There are more than 450 shipwrecks buried in the abyss. This is not a place that I would like to SCUBA dive in. The scenery of Tierra del Fuego archipelago was truly enthralling. The land mass is roughly the size of Ireland with the Argentine side being more populated. Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) received it’s name from the flaring of natural gas in the regions oil fields, now the area is protected and is devoted to sheep grazing for wool and mutton. I stayed in the breathtaking city of Ushuaia (Arg.) where 80% of the Antarctic’s tourist departs for the frozen South. The trip from Punta Arenas was a grueling 14 hour bus & boat ride, 384 miles (620 km) but well worth it. Ushuaia is the Southernmost city in the world and to see it at the peak of winter was such a privilege. The landscape was the most dramatic change from any of my recent locations. Ushuaia is surrounded by jagged glacier peaks rising from sea level to nearly 5,000 ft. I hiked into the Tierra del Fuego National Park all the way to the end of the Pan-American Hwy., while hiking I saw the most beautiful Fuegion Red Fox and her puppy. I also hiked (and took a ski lift) to the glassy frozen Martial Glacier to see the panoramic view of Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel, the Lapataic Bay and the Chilean Islands of Navarino and Hoste. It was a difficult climb due to the powdery deep snow and the slippery ice but it was hugely satisfying to see the magical glacier. Ushuaia was excellent, I loved the solitude and the natural surrounding was awe-inspiring. As for the Antarctic, I didn’t get there (only 620 miles away : ( ) due to the season, ships only run during the summer months (Nov-March). International rules allow only 100 people at a time to disembark to the frozen continent with a maximum of 600 people total at any one time. One day I’ll return to touch the frozen continent but for now it must remain on my wish list. I continued to transverse the Chilean and Argentine Patagonia through towns such as CULLEN (yes, Dad there is a town named after your family.... maybe we are part Argentinean), RIO GRANDE, RIO GALLEGOS, and ESPERANZA. The most Northern part of Argentina I traveled to was El Calafate. El Calafate´s main attraction is the Moreno Glacier in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, which is the largest national park in Argentina. The Moreno Glacier is one of the earth’s few advancing ice fields. I spent a whole day viewing this spectacular site from both land and water. Periodically a large piece of the glacier would break off causing a gunshot sound and then exploded into the turquoise waters below. I walked on a trail with swirling snow, similar to a snow scene in a glass paperweight, looking at the twigs thickened with glistening ice and before I knew it night had fallen. I stayed 3 days in a cozy cabana walking in the soft snow that looked like spilled cream thinking about how travel is such a great stimulant for the mind and body. I hope you are all experiencing some sort of bliss in your lives. | |
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