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Land of amazing sites
by Kelly Cullen
(2001/07/08)
Nearest City: Not Specified
Detailed Location: Chile & Argentina
Photo/Video:"Me at the Morena Glacier"
CHILE & ARGENTINA .... A land of amazing sites (7-08-01)

Chile, with a population of 14.8 million, is shaped like a
string bean and is no wider than 111 miles (180 km). Its
landscapes include the rocky Andean peaks, snowcapped
volcanoes, broad rivers and deep canyons, icy fjords,
deep-blue glaciers and turquoise lakes. I began my Chilean
adventure in Easter Island (which I wrote about previously)
then on to the mainland of this remarkable country.

Santiago is a very modern and immense metropolis with it’s
skyline reflecting the vigorous economical growth. I had a
fun-filled time with several people I met in Easter Island.
In 3 days, we toured every street in the large city. I took
lots of beautiful pictures of San Cristobal (reached by a
funicular train), the Cementerio General, where all the
former Presidents are buried and witnessed the changing of
the guards outside of the Plaza de la Consititucion.

The area I spent most of my time in was the Icy Southern tip
of Patagonia. Its rugged mountains were constantly battered
by the westerly winds that dropped enormous amounts of snow
and rain. The average high temperature was 35 F (2C) but the
dampness and wind chill factor made it seem much colder.
Also the brief winter daylight didn’t help with the chilling
factor either.

I flew from smog-covered Santiago to the subantartic city of
Punta Arenas. Punta Arenas is the capital of the Chilean
Patagonia and is at the foot of the Andes with the Strait of
Magellan on the Western side of the city. The town serves as
the principal port to the Strait and the entrance door of
the Antarctica waters. This town of unrelenting winter winds
is known for it’s Art Deco Mansions and the wool boom of the
late 19th century.

As I crossed the Strait of Magellan into Tierra del Fuego, I
was reminded of the stories I read about the strong
undercurrent and hard climate conditions that transformed
the Strait into a vessel cemetery. There are more than 450
shipwrecks buried in the abyss. This is not a place that I
would like to SCUBA dive in.

The scenery of Tierra del Fuego archipelago was truly
enthralling. The land mass is roughly the size of Ireland
with the Argentine side being more populated. Tierra del
Fuego (Land of Fire) received it’s name from the flaring of
natural gas in the regions oil fields, now the area is
protected and is devoted to sheep grazing for wool and
mutton.

I stayed in the breathtaking city of Ushuaia (Arg.) where
80% of the Antarctic’s tourist departs for the frozen South.
The trip from Punta Arenas was a grueling 14 hour bus & boat
ride, 384 miles (620 km) but well worth it. Ushuaia is the
Southernmost city in the world and to see it at the peak of
winter was such a privilege. The landscape was the most
dramatic change from any of my recent locations. Ushuaia is
surrounded by jagged glacier peaks rising from sea level to
nearly 5,000 ft.

I hiked into the Tierra del Fuego National Park all the way
to the end of the Pan-American Hwy., while hiking I saw the
most beautiful Fuegion Red Fox and her puppy. I also hiked
(and took a ski lift) to the glassy frozen Martial Glacier
to see the panoramic view of Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel,
the Lapataic Bay and the Chilean Islands of Navarino and
Hoste. It was a difficult climb due to the powdery deep snow
and the slippery ice but it was hugely satisfying to see the
magical glacier. Ushuaia was excellent, I loved the solitude
and the natural surrounding was awe-inspiring.

As for the Antarctic, I didn’t get there (only 620 miles away
: ( ) due to the season, ships only run during the summer
months (Nov-March). International rules allow only 100
people at a time to disembark to the frozen continent with a
maximum of 600 people total at any one time. One day I’ll
return to touch the frozen continent but for now it must
remain on my wish list.

I continued to transverse the Chilean and Argentine
Patagonia through towns such as CULLEN (yes, Dad there is a
town named after your family.... maybe we are part
Argentinean), RIO GRANDE, RIO GALLEGOS, and ESPERANZA. The most
Northern part of Argentina I traveled to was El Calafate.

El Calafate´s main attraction is the Moreno Glacier in the
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, which is the largest national
park in Argentina. The Moreno Glacier is one of the earth’s
few advancing ice fields. I spent a whole day viewing this
spectacular site from both land and water. Periodically a
large piece of the glacier would break off causing a
gunshot sound and then exploded into the turquoise waters
below. I walked on a trail with swirling snow, similar to a
snow scene in a glass paperweight, looking at the twigs
thickened with glistening ice and before I knew it night had
fallen. I stayed 3 days in a cozy cabana walking in the soft
snow that looked like spilled cream thinking about how
travel is such a great stimulant for the mind and body. I
hope you are all experiencing some sort of bliss in your
lives.


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